Frequently Asked Questions

• CAN "I" APPLY ANY OF THE COATINGS?
  • Any professional coating company, manufacturer, machine shop or professional engine builder may purchase the products that we manufacture. In addition, our products which either air dry or use water as the solvent and are packaged for retail sale may be purchased by anyone for do-it-yourself application.
    
    
• WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THE COATINGS PACKAGED FOR RETAIL SALE AND THOSE WHICH ARE NOT?
  • In almost all cases there is no difference. The decision to package in retail containers is based on the cure/solvent needed. Other than DFL- 1/TLML Dry Film Lubricants, all other retail packaged products are the some ones that are used by professional shops. If it is not available in aretail package, then it is "Shop Only" due to contents and cure methods required.
    
    
• WHAT PARTS SHOULD BE TREATED?
  • Any part subject to friction, loss of lubricating film, heat damage, corrosion or abrasion. In addition enhanced appearance is possible for parts such as headers, brackets, and suspension pieces.
    
    
• HOW MUCH POWER WILL I GAIN?
  • This will depend upon many factors that will vary from application to application. Testing has shown significant power increases on a dyno. In addition certain changes can be made in such areas as tolerances, timing, jetting and the lubricants used, that will increase torque and H.P. and are only possible through the use of coatings. Horsepower gains of up to 40h.p. have been measured in independent dyno testing.
    
    
• HOW LONG WILL THE COATINGS LAST?
  • Depending on the coating, part life increases from two (2) to ten (10) times what is normal can be seen. In addition coatings such as CERMAKROME can provide virtual lifetime protection against rust. The dry film lubricants may burnish until they are no longer visible, however, the active materials are bonded into the pores of the part and continue to provideprotection.
    
    
• WILL I SEE A TEMPERATURE CHANGE?
  • Parts will run cooler. Engine oil and water temperatures have shown a reduction. On headers the radiated heat will be substantially reduced leading to lower underhood temperatures and less heat absorption by nearby parts andsurfaces.
    
    
• WHAT ABOUT CLEARANCES?
  • The dry film lubricants will burnish as they run until they are no longer visible. They are applied at thicknesses ranging from .0005" to .0015". However, before assembly the coating may be burnished back to less than .0002" with gentle buffing using "Scotch-bright" or similar material.NO CHANGES need to be made in clearances due to the use of these coatings, though in many instances because of the reduced part temperature and increased lubrication tighter clearances may be run.
  
  
• WHAT ABOUT MACHINING, BALANCING
  • All machine work should be done first.
    
    
• WHAT EQUIPMENT IS NEEDED
  • Parts first must be sandblasted at low pressure (40 psi using a suction type blaster) using fine sand (120 grit aluminum oxide is recommended), NOT with glass bead. Then the part should be degreased using acetone, lacquer thinner, M.E.K. or similar non petroleum based solvent that leaves no residue. The coatings should be applied with an airbrush or detail touchup gun. Baking may be accomplished with any oven. Kitchen ovens or even toaster ovens work just fine. Obviously the size of the oven will determine how large a part can be coated and cured.
    
    
• DOES IT MATTER HOW THICK I PUT THE COATINGS ON?
  • YES, the coatings are thickness sensitive. Generally .0015" is the maximum thickness recommended. This thickness will be achieved when a solid color is seen. Putting any coating on too thick can cause the coating to crack, flake or bubble up.
    
    
• CAN I CURE CERMAKROME ON MY CAR LIKE BLACK SATIN?
  • No CERMAKROME must be oven cured.
    
    
• CAN I SPRAY CERMAKROME ON THEN TRANSPORT IT TO AN OVEN?
  • While this has been done, it is not recommended. You MUST first dry the coating and then handle it very carefully. It is imperative that the coating be sprayed on and then immediately dried and then baked. The coating will absorb water from the air and if left sitting too long without baking will become runny and no longer can be baked.
    
    
• WHY DOES USING PKSX NOT HURT RING SEAL?
  • The PKSX powder only goes on 20 millionth of an inch thick. This does not fill in the cross hatch. In fact PKSX actually improves ring breakin, seal and long term leak down.
    
    
• WHY IS BLACK SATIN A BETTER THERMAL BARRIER THANCERMAKROME, SINCE BLACK SHOULD EMIT MORE HEAT THAN A SILVER COATING?
  • While it is true that black normally is a better color to emit heat, in this instance the color is not as important as the fillers in the coating. These fillers are very effective insulators, sufficiently so that the black color does not affect the function. Interestingly the silver color of CERMAKROME or any other Metallic Ceramic Coating comes from the aluminum filler. Aluminum is a very good conductor of heat. Yet the effectiveness of these coatings are not degraded.
    
    
• WHAT GUARANTEE IS THERE?
  • All TECH LINE products are guaranteed to be produced as described in our literature. We cannot guarantee the performance of the products as the use, application, and handling of the products is beyond our control.
    
    
• CAN I USE GLASS BEAD TO CLEAN MY PARTS?
  • No: only use fine sand or fine aluminum oxide. Glass bead is round and while it is a good cleaner it closes the pores of the metal. Use fine sand/aluminum oxide which etches the metal and cleans/opens the pores allowing the coatings to bond into the metal.
    
    
• HOW FAR WILL THE COATING GO?
  • Coverages on the more popular coatings are as follows: BHK, COLORGARD series and TXBK small headers 4 oz.; medium headers 6-8 oz.; Large headers 10-12 oz.; CBC1, CBC2, and CBX 3oz is the equivalent of three (3) sets of small block V8 pistons. DFL-1 covers the major parts of a V8. PKSX requires only a small amount of powder to do all the surfaces in several engines. In all cases a little material goes a longway.
    
    
• WHAT SHOULD I USE TO SPRAY IT ON?
  • Use either an airbrush (not one for pinstriping) or a detail touch-up gun (jam gun). Larger spray units or aerosol spray jars are not recommended. Most coatings spray with 35 psi. The water based coatings work better at 50 to 60 psi.
    
    
• WHAT TUNING CHANGES WILL BE NECESSARY?
  • The changes necessary will vary from engine to engine and depend on how many parts are coated. In general coating the combustion chamber surfaces will allow you to run less initial timing with no loss of power (usually a gain will occur). You may also be able to run significantly less fuel, due to the more efficient oxidation that occurs with the coated parts. You should be able to run smaller jet sizes. Obviously no specific recommendations can be made as every engine/combination will be different.
    
    
• HOW DO I TELL IF I HAVE THE RIGHT THICKNESS OF COATING?
  • In general the easiest way to tell is by appearance. When you have solid color you have sufficient material. One solid coat is better than several light coats. You can overlap the coatings during application, but it is best not to let the parts dry before putting more material over a coated surface. Do not judge coatings the way you would a coat of paint. The coatings go on from 1/3 to 1/5 the thickness of a coat of paint.
    
    
• WHAT SOLVENTS SHOULD I USE?
  • Use any solvent that does not leave a residue. Acetone, M.E. K. and lacquer thinner usually work well. DO NOT USE PETROLEUM BASED SOLVENTS.
    
    
• WHAT DO I USE TO POLISH CERMAKROME?
  • Use fine steel wool or 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper. A final polish with a buffing wheel or 1200 grit sandpaper, or a polishing compound will bring a very bright shine. Do not use ÒScotch-brightÓ or similar material. Lightly glass beading at about 25 to 30 psi will give a nice effect and it is easier to polish up after glass beading has occurred.

   

Please send additional questions to leonard@techlinecoatings.com

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